I knew I was close to a few things I wanted to see so I wandered the streets. There is a big lake on the edge of the Old Quarter called Hô Hoàn Kiêm Lake. It is a freshwater lake about 12 hectares around and as with most things around here, there is a legend attached.
Emperor Lê Loi was out boating on the lake one day when a giant golden turtle appeared. The turtle, apparently the god Kim Qui asked the Emperor for his sword. It was not just any sword of course. The Emperor happened to have in his possession a magic sword called Heaven’s Will, which another local god Long Vurong (the dragon king) gave him to fight off Ming China. Since the turtle worked for the dragon, and the sword was lent not given, when the task of defeating China was accomplished the Emperor returned the sword to the turtle.
So, Hô Hoàn Kiêm translates to ‘Lake of the Returned Sword’ or ‘Sword lake.’ It was named by the Emperor after he defeated Ming China when he returned the sword to the turtle. Before the Emperor returned the sword, the lake was called Luc Thúy, or ‘green water.’ Descriptive, but common. The upgrade comes with a story so is much better.
On a small island in the middle of the lake is Tháp Rùa, or Turtle Tower. Probably where the golden turtle god hung out and waited for the sword to be returned, but I am unclear on exactly how or why the island and temple upon it are named as such.
I did learn that there were a species of very large soft shelled turtles who lived in the lake. They were from the Rafetus family of turtles. I’ll let you look that up. Anyway, the last known turtle was found dead on the 19th of January 2016, so there are no more living in the lake.
On the other end of the lake there is a an islet where the Temple of the Jane Mountain (Ngoc Son Temple) is located. I wanted to go to the temple today, but I was wearing shorts, and I was told repeatedly to enter a temple you must have your knees and shoulders covered.
It was also nuts busy. Since it is Tet, families gather and go to temples to make offerings and say prayers for the coming year. Businesses and schools close for a week and people return to the places of their ancestors to honor them. Then it appears most spend the entire week wondering from temple to temple, in traditional attire and make offerings to the various gods.
Around the lake, I couldn’t move 5 feet without someone posing for a picture, or a vendor selling things to people for use as offerings. It felt like Times Square on New Years Eve. But for a week.
Anyway, Ngoc Son Temple honors the 13th century military leader Tràn Hung Dao, who chased those pesky Mongols out of Vietnam 3 different times. Long ago, one needed a boat to get to the temple, but then they built a bridge called the Húc Bridge, which means Perch of the Morning Sunlight.
Again, I was not wearing pants. I did not walk on the bridge.
I also did not have time to walk around the lake if I was going to make it back to the hotel for my first magical tour.
But it was a nice walk and I snapped several pics along the way. Living through the traffic was a bonus.
Walking by the lake. 
If there were not so many people around, I might crawl out on this branch and… honestly, fall in. 
It is still a lake, but with a different view from the other side. 
the water is green. 
I like this one. I think he looks like Homer Simpson as a dog. 
Guardians of the temple entrance. 
monument to something. I should have learned Vietnamese. 
I liked this clock. Perhaps for above the window on the stairs… 
French architecture is very prominent. 
Wandering around and found this place. Also recommended for coffee. Also closed. 
whole city decorated right now 
Look up. It is a different world on the second floor. 
This does not look like Iowa. 
Made in Vietnam store
