I came into this country having no expectations. My neutrality was palatable, and perhaps that is why I embraced the experience.
I said earlier, Vietnam was my starting point and Laos was where I arrived. I had time to think. I did things casually and the only thing rushing me was the fact the boat was leaving.
I wrote. I saw things. I did things all by my big girl self, and that was satisfying, cleansing and entirely unnerving.
But, I did come across the realization of how easily I become annoyed and bothered by little things. I knew this phase of my life had changed me. My outlook is more f-u than it used to be, and I value and appreciate my solitude so I do not need to deal with the constant stupidity of the world.
The ticket man at ‘the view’ was an epiphany for me in many ways. He was doing his job, well or otherwise, and I was reacting to my emotions and feelings, not his words. My choices. My desires. My reaction.
The boat people… no they were simply too righteous and annoying to explain away, but they gave me another opportunity to examine my reactions and biases to the attitude they presented.
The people of the world who always must be better; must be right; must argue you into the ground will do so if I am right or not. If they are found in error, they change the rules or definition to explain they did not understand your statement and find a way to be right in doing so.
I know a few people like that. I know they are clueless as to who they are. I know I act like a know it all from time to time. Or at least I hope it is from time to time and not constant nagging superiority. Because shoot me now if that is true.
Please don’t shoot me now. Just help me stop being an ass.
The point is, especially for an introvert such as myself, people are hard. This whole trip is hard. Everything that has happened to me to date is outside anything I would define as a comfort zone. Except people continue to be hard. That is entirely normal.
And here I am, in Laos, a country I never even considered or locate on a map. Yet here I am acting normal. Trying to figure out why certain people trigger me and others do not. Normal. No answers as of yet, but normal.
Perhaps that is why I feel comfortable here. People annoy me. Yes, we will go with that until I figure out something smarter to say.
So, Lao PDR, or Laos, whatever you want to call it, is not a ‘developed’ country. It has moments of modern inspiration surrounded by jungles and UNICEF communities.
I want to be clear, the people are not poor, under educated or in any way deficient. They are different because of their environment and their traditions, just as I am different from the costal dwellers of the US because I was born and raised in the middle. It is a very important point. I want to make sure I express it.
Every community has issues. Eutopia does not exist on the planet, and if it did at some point, I am positive it was overrun by tourists and ruined.
Laos may have never been Eutopia, but the people are kind, generous, and have a lot to offer.
Coffee was one of those things. I don’t think I ever entertained the idea of Lao coffee until I arrived, but Lum Lum was outstanding. I am sorry I only made the one trip to their stand. It might have also been the fact the coffee was blended with ice. I probably would have consumed river water if it had ice.
They also have beer here. I am not shocked, but if you believe my husbands version of the world, this is not one of the places one would look for quality beer. I do not partake in that consumable myself, but apparently Beerlao is quite the masterpiece of hop manipulation.
The streets of Luang Prabang are not smooth as silk, but they are miles better than the inconsistent mess of Vietnam. The streets are clean, or at least the garbage is not on the curb (it is hidden behind small fences) and the pace of life does not dictate death if you decide to cross the street.
Of course, venture a meter out of town and you are in pot hole hell I can only explain away as they detonated UXO on the roads, but in town. Very nice.
Ice. They have ice and cold drinks. I could be on the moon if they have ice.
If you pay more than $3 US for dinner, you are being swindled.
Religion here is the same but different. In Vietnam, many were religious and gave offerings at temples. Here, monks wander the streets in robes and people step aside to let them pass. I have seen more monks here than I did at the Bai Dinh Buddhist Complex.
They expect you to barter, and stare at you in disbelief if you simply agree to pay the requested price. At least at the night market.
I am terrible at it, but considered it a win if I talked them down 50 cents. Of course, a t-shirt full price was $3, so I didn’t think I needed to barter.
They may have some shorter chairs, but at least dining tables and chairs are what I consider normal height. Thank god. My boobs were taking a beating from my knees being jammed in them.
More people are western tourists here, at least right now. There are a lot of Germans and Swiss here, and a lot of people who speak English. When I left Vietnam, I met up with a couple of men from Brittan who were living in Japan and on vacation going to Laos. I was so glad they spoke English to me, I thanked them and almost cried. Then I saw them at the bank in Luang Prabang, and since we were speaking English, I met a lovely couple from Australia… as I said, a lot of westerners here right now.
Getting on the boat and out into the rural parts of the country was possibly the most enlightening part of the trip.
Honestly, the boat ride was long, and I had a lot of time to contemplate and write, which deepened my appreciation for the country.
But it was also the ability to pause, look and realize. My husband would have hated it.
My favorite thing about Laos was the laid back river vibe. Not ocean vibe because I am midwestern and we don’t have those. But the float down river, barge traffic, casual waterfront views. It reminded me of home in an entirely not at home kind of way.
I also enjoyed leaving it behind. I am looking forward to meeting up with my friend and exploring the wonders of Thailand, so as with all things, this chapter comes to a close. Flip the page and start anew.
