Today was show the foreigner around day. We started at MJ’s favorite temple, Wat Inthakhin Sadeu Muang.
The Temple is named after the Pali name for the Chiang Mai city pillar, Sao Inthakin, which literally translates to ‘pillar of Indra.’
The other part of the name (Sadeu Muang) literally translates to ‘Monastery of the City Navel.’ So one could take that information and translate it to ‘The monastery temple of the pillar of Indra in the city navel (Center). Or something.
Legend says Indra (the lord of heaven in Hindu belief) gave the pillar to the people of the area to protect against evil demons that were plaguing them. Over time, the people neglected the pillar and the demons returned.
I keep telling the kids not to neglect things. They do not listen. Of course, neither do I.
In 1296, King Mengrai chose the site of Chiang Mai to be the new capital of the Lanna kingdom.
He moved it from Chiang Rai if you were wondering. He also ‘founded Chiang Rai.
King Mengrai found the old city pillar amongst the ruins of the town and was told the legend about the demons and the neglectful people.
To keep his new city free of evil, he took the pillar and placed it at the geographical center of the new city in a temple called Wat Sadue Muang. Refer to the long translation above. Very descriptive.
Because it now had the pillar, the name upgraded to include Inthakhin. And thus the name, Wat Inthakhin Sadeu Muang.
But here is the catch. Wat Sadue Muang was abandoned in 1784 and the ruins of that Wat are across the street in the cultural museum, and this wat is apparently a new and improved wat. or maybe they are the same wat and only some of it was abandoned. I am not sure of anything anymore.
To add to the head scratching complexity, in 1800 King Chao Kawila of the Lanna Kingdom moved the legendary pillar to Wat Chedi Luang. Not sure of exact details about why it was moved, and apparently historians are not sure either, but he moved it nonetheless.
So, in summary, I saw a new temple I cannot tell you the exact name of, even though I can tell you the name, but most people don’t call it that.
Currently, there are 2 brick chedi, a Viharn, a museum, and the Kuti (monk living quarters).
The oldest structures are the 2 brick chedis, one on either side of the road. The 15th century circular chedi was built over an older existing one, while the 14th century chedi is octagonal in shape.
The circular chedi is believed to contain King Mangrai’s relics. According to the local legend of Chiang Mai and the Yonok Annals, King Mangrai was struck by lightning and died when he was in the city’s market, where a chedi was later built by Phraya Chayasongkhram, his son, to contain King Mangrai’s ashes.
The chedi is a Lanna-style bell-shaped stupa, which fits with the legend, kind of. During its restoration, traces of a pavilion stupa were found inside.
You may ask, because I did. What is a pavilion stupa? It is a stupa that was commonly built during the time of King Maigrai, which corresponds with the story recorded in the legend.
I love legends. I am one in my own mind, you know.
So, that stupa was valuable and apparently hidden under a chedi. I have no other information on the other chedi other than it is octagonal. Honestly, I either missed them entirely (very possible) or I simply did not take pictures of the chedis. (also probable). I am still new to this temple thing, so not great on looking at what is important.
Like these little guys for example…
Cute, right?
The Viharn was recently built to enshrine the temple’s Buddha images. Because before it was built, the images were housed in a shed. Hard to pray in a shed if you ask me.
The viharn is a very ornate dark wooden building on a stone base. The multi tiered roof is a signature Lanna architectural style, and of course, Naga stairways lead to the viharn’s entrance.
Inside the viharn enshrines the principal Buddha image named Luan Pho Khao. The image was made in 1794 by order of Kawila before he became king of Lanna.
And then decided to move the pillar. Still don’t know why he did that, but at least he left them an image they apparently kept in a shed until recently. Sounds like there might have been some hard feelings back then.
Next to the temple is the Inthakin Museum which gives and impression of life in the days of the Lanna Kingdom.
We did not visit, but the internet tells me there are paintings, musical instruments, 13th century clothing, weapons and tools, and the most interesting thing is they have a model of an elephant with a shrine housing a Buddha image on its back. Because that is they way images were transported in the 13th century.
Given the sizes of the images I have seen so far, and with all due respect to the elephants who were breaking their backs to do the work, I don’t know how else one would move an oversized image, in the 13th century, in this part of the world, without an elephant.
So pictures are lacking, but I am sure we will be back to this site, since MJ likes to come here daily. Keep an eye out for better pictures.
